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How to Knit 1 over 1, 2 over 2, and 3 over 3 Stitches - Tutorial

3/27/2025

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bands of 1 over 1 stitch in knitting
These stitches have a beautiful braided look to them that’s just stunning. I’ve got a couple of patterns that use these stitches due for release in the coming months so I thought I’d do a quick tutorial showing how they’re knitted.
 
The one over one stitch is used in my Ae Fond Kiss shawl. It’s worked with a row of elongated stitches before and after to really accentuate it. My 1, 2, 3 Cowl uses 1 over 1, 2 over 2 and 3 over 3 stitches in sequence.
All of these stitches need a set up row. We need a little extra wiggle room in order to be able to lift the stitches up and over each other, and for this we need to work extra yarn overs in the set up row, and then drop them on the next row. Depending on the pattern, this might be a wrong-side or a right-side row.
 
Set up Row on the Right Side: work k1, *yo2, k1* to the end of row. Yo2 just means bring the yarn round the needle twice, instead of once in a normal yarnover.
 
Set up Row on the Wrong Side: work p1, *yo2, p1* to end of row. Just the same as for the right side, but just working purl instead of knit.
2 over 2 stitch knitting
 
Now it’s time to work the actual 1 over 1, 2 over 2, or 3 over 3 stitches.
 
First, whether you’re on the rights side or wrong side, you drop yarnovers for 2, 4 or 6 stitches. For 1 over 1, you (slip 1, drop two yarnovers) twice. For 2 over 2, you (slip 1, drop two yarnovers) four times, and for 3 over 3, it’s six times. You then slip these 2, 4 or 6 stitches back to the left needle. You should have 2, 4 or 6 really elongated stitches.
 
We’ll give instructions for the next step according to which stitch you’re working. You knit if you’re on the right side and purl if you’re on the wrong side.
One over one: knit/purl into the second stitch on the needle, lift it up and over the first stitch, and then drop it off the left needle. Then knit/purl the first stitch.
 
Two over two: from right to left, imagine the stitches are numbered 1, 2, 3, 4. You’re going to work stitches 3 and 4 first, then 1 and 2. So you knit/purl into stitch 3 on the needle, lift it up and over the first two stitches, and then drop it off the left needle. Then do the same for stitch 4. Then knit/purl stitch 1, then stitch 2 as normal.
 
Three over three: it’s the same idea, just with six stitches. From right to left, imagine the stitches are numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. You’re going to work stitches 4, 5 and 6 first, then ,1 2 and 3. So you knit/purl into stitch 4 on the needle, lift it up and over the first three stitches, and then drop it off the left needle. Then do the same for stitch 5, then stitch 6. Then knit/purl stitch 1, 2, then 3 as normal.
 
Here's the video showing all three stitches where the 1 over 1’s etc are purled. This is the video you need if you’re knitting the Ae Fond Kiss Shawl – and you can ignore the instructions for 2 over 2 and 3 over 3.
Here’s the video showing all three stitches where the 1 over 1’s etc are knitted. This is the video you need if you’re knitting the 1, 2, 3 Cowl.
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How to Knit Heart Nupps - Tutorial

3/25/2025

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A handknitted lace shawl with bands of elongated stitches and heart nupps
Nupps are lovely little clusters of stitch used traditionally in Estonian Lace knitting, and Heart Nupps take this idea one step further. We knit lots of stitches into three stitches, making a “clump” of stitches, and then on the next row we purl them together in two separate groups with a single purl stitch in between, making a heart shape.
 
Here’s our step by step guide, together with some hints for making this tricky stitch a little easier!
 
Step 1: before you even start knitting, think about what yarn you’re going to use. A smooth, fine, light coloured yarn will be the easiest, although a darker colour is still manageable. In this version, fifteen stitches are knitted from three, and the thicker your yarn, the trickier this is to achieve. If you’re knitting in a 4ply yarn, you could work thirteen stitches from three and then on the wrong side work p6tog, p1, p6tog. If you’re using an even thicker yarn you might need to work even fewer stitches, but the fewer stitches you work, the less “heart like” it’ll look.
 
Step 2: gather some materials to help make things easier. For me, this was stitch markers and a thin, extra pointy, sock knitting dpn. Placing a thin stitch marker 7 stitches into the 15 makes it easier to work that p7tog on the WS. And those p7togs are fiddly! Using a thinner dpn and then slipping that stitch onto your needle makes things a little easier.

Handknitted cropped top with lace yoke and heart nupps
Heart Nupps in the lace yoke of my Loveheart Crop
Step 3: the initial right-side row. To make the heart nupp, we knit 3 stitches together (k3tog), but don’t drop it off the left needle. We then work (yo, k3tog) into that same three stitches seven more times. Each yo and each k3tog makes a new stitch, so altogether that gives us fifteen stitches from three. I made sure to pull the initial k3tog through really loosely, and then pull though every subsequent (yo, k3tog) through as far as I could. If you’re using extra pointy needles, make sure you push the stitches up to the wider part of the needle, rather than just working the stitches at the very tips. I would also recommend placing a very thin stitch marker after 7 stitches (i.e. after working k3tog, once, then (yo, k3tog) three times). I used super basic stitch markers that are just a little metal ring, rather than the chunky plastic clip on ones.

Step 4: the wrong side row. This is where things get fiddly! You need to take that 15 stitches you just made and work p7tog, p1, p7tog to get it back down to three stitches. If you placed a marker after 7 stitches in the previous round, when you’re working back on the WS, there’ll be eight stitches, then the marker, then seven more stitches. So make sure you leave one stitch before the marker on the needle to work that p1. You might find it easier using a thinner dpn if you have one lying around!
 
Here's a video which shows me knitting this stitch. Apologies because I have terribly shaky hands, I show how to work three heart nupps on the right side, but only one on the wrong side – I thought it would be best to quit while I was ahead!
​If you’re interested in patterns using heart nupps, my Loveheart Crop is available at the moment and my Ae Fond Kiss Shawl pattern is being released in early April.
Handknitted cropped top with lace yoke and heart nupps
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Tiny Hoop 1 - Knit your own Artwork

3/17/2025

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My Tiny Hoop 1 pattern is live! A beautiful piece of textile artwork that knits up in around an hour. It combines short rows, lace stitches and open space to make a gorgeous piece of hoop art. Using less than 30m of laceweight yarn, this is perfect for using up odds and ends from a larger lace project.
I’ve always thought of lace knitting as an art form. A light and delicate shawl with complex stitch pattern, knitted with skill over many hours, certainly seems to meet the definition of artwork- it’s juts wearable too. I’m taking this a little bit further with my Tiny Hoop series and delving into the world of fibre arts.
 
I’ve used Meadow Yarn’s Bray Lace for this piece, in colourway “A Whisper Woven Through It”, it’s a handdyed silk mohair blend that I also used for my Suilven Cowl. The shine of the silk and halo of mohair is the perfect yarn for showing off the delicate lace stitches. Any laceweight yarn would work well though! I’m all for a bit of anti-consumerism and this is a great pattern for using up what you’ve already got in your stash.

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​Here's all the pattern details for this knitted masterpiece:
 
Suggested Yarn: Meadow Yarn Bray Lace (72% Mohair, 28% Silk ) 420 m/460 yds per 50 g skein:
Colourway: A Whisper Woven Through It
Meterage: 25 m
 
Yardage: 27 yds
 
Dimensions
To fit 10 cm/4” embroidery hoop.
 
Needles: 3.25 mm/US 3 straight needles or as required to achieve gauge. We recommend sharp lace needles if using laceweight mohair.
 
Gauge: 20 sts and 28 rows = 10 cm/4” with 3.25 mm/US 3 needle in stocking stitch after blocking
 
Extras: Tapestry needle for weaving in loose ends, pins and blocking board for finishing, 10 cm/4” embroidery hoop.
Skills Needed: knit, purl, yo, yo2, dropping yos, knitted and purled increases and decreases (k1fb, k2tog, ssk, p2tog, ssp), 3-3 gathered stitches (instructions given) cast on and bind off, working flat, and blocking.
 
I hope this inspires you to see knitting in a different way! You can find the pattern on Etsy, Ravelry and here on my website.
 


It’s available at a 50% discount with coupon code KNITART until midnight (GMT) on 24th March. Happy Knitting!
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